✦ Culture · Milan
Why Givenchy Costume Jewelry Matters Now
A single gold-tone chain from 1978 can do more for a plain white shirt than any fine necklace. Here is how to wear vintage Givenchy jewelry without looking like you raided a costume shop.

The Chain That Does the Work
A white shirt, jeans, and a heavy gold-tone chain. That is the whole outfit. The chain is Givenchy, from 1978, and it cost less than a pair of Levi's. I wear it three times a week. The weight of it changes how I stand. You cannot slouch in a collar that heavy. That is the point.
How to Wear It Without Looking Costume
Start with proportion. A chunky Givenchy collar necklace needs a bare neck and a simple neckline. Crew neck, V-neck, or an open shirt. Avoid ruffles, avoid pussy bows, avoid anything that competes. The necklace is the event.

For brooches, pin them where a lapel would be, even if there is no lapel. A 1980s Givenchy rhinestone brooch on the shoulder of a plain black blazer reads as intentional. On a denim jacket, it reads as ironic. Choose your intention.
Earrings: Givenchy made huge clip-ons in the 1980s. They are heavy. They will hurt by hour three. Wear them anyway. The scale is the point. Keep hair pulled back or tucked behind the ear. Let the earring own the space.
Bracelets: stack two or three thin gold-tone bangles from the 1970s. Do not mix metals unless you are deliberate. Gold with gold. Silver with silver. Givenchy did both, but rarely together in one piece.
What to pair with: silk scarves, plain cashmere, stiff cotton poplin, leather jackets, turtlenecks. What to avoid: lace, florals, anything with its own sparkle. The jewelry should be the only shiny thing you are wearing.
Era Tells and Quality Tells
Givenchy costume jewelry falls into three rough periods. The 1950s and 1960s pieces are rare and often unsigned. The 1970s pieces are gold-tone, often with faux pearls, and signed with a cursive 'Givenchy' on a cartouche. The 1980s pieces are bigger, bolder, and frequently signed with a block logo or a plaque.

Look for weight. A good 1970s Givenchy necklace has heft. It should feel like something. If it feels hollow and light, it is probably late 1980s or 1990s production, which is thinner and less interesting.
Check the clasp. Early pieces use a box clasp or a hook. Later pieces use a lobster claw. Neither is better, but the clasp tells you the decade.
Materials: gold-tone metal over brass, sometimes with a lacquer finish. Faux pearls that are glass-based, not plastic. Rhinestones that are glued, not prong-set, in most cases. Prong-set stones appear in higher-end pieces from the 1980s.
Signatures: 'Givenchy' in script on a small oval plaque is 1970s. 'Givenchy' in block letters on a rectangular plaque is 1980s. 'Givenchy Paris' with a serial number is later, often 1990s. The serial number is not a date code. Ignore it.
What to avoid: green residue on the metal, which means the lacquer has worn off and the brass is reacting to your skin. Missing stones. Bent pins on brooches. A broken hinge on a clip earring. These are not easy fixes.
Price: you should pay around $160 for a signed, wearable piece. Less if it needs work. More if it is a documented runway piece. Do not pay more than $200 unless you love it.
The History You Can Wear
Hubert de Givenchy founded his house in 1952. He was 25. His first collection was built on separates, which was radical at the time. He said he wanted to make clothes for women who lived real lives. That philosophy extended to jewelry.

The costume jewelry line started in the late 1950s. It was made in France and later in Italy. The pieces were designed to be worn with his couture, but they were sold separately. Women bought them to add glamour to daywear.
Audrey Hepburn wore Givenchy in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' (1961). The long pearl necklace she wore with the black dress was not Givenchy jewelry, but the look defined the era. Givenchy's own costume pieces from that period are harder to find but follow the same logic: simple, elegant, oversized.
In 1972, Givenchy launched a licensed costume jewelry line that was more affordable. This is the era most pieces in circulation come from. The designs were bold, gold-tone, and meant to be worn in daylight. They were not precious. They were confident.
By the 1980s, the jewelry had become more extravagant. Big faux pearls, big rhinestones, big everything. It matched the mood of the decade. These pieces are easy to find and easy to wear if you keep the rest of your outfit quiet.
What to Check Before You Buy
Turn the piece over. Look for the signature. If it is not signed, it is probably not Givenchy. There are many unsigned pieces that look similar. They are fine, but they are not what you are paying for.

Test the clasp. Open and close it three times. If it sticks or feels loose, walk away.
Check the stones. Run your fingernail over the edge of a rhinestone. If it catches, the glue is failing. If it is smooth, it is secure.
Look at the back of the metal. If it is rough or pitted, the piece has been worn hard. Some wear is fine. Deep pitting is not.
Ask about repairs. A missing stone can be replaced. A broken hinge on a clip earring can sometimes be fixed. A snapped chain cannot be fixed invisibly. Do not buy a broken chain unless you plan to remake it.
The Only Rule
Wear one piece at a time. Givenchy costume jewelry is not subtle. It does not layer well with itself. A single gold-tone collar necklace, a single oversized brooch, a single pair of clip earrings. That is enough. The rest of your outfit should be a frame. The jewelry is the picture. You do not need a special occasion. You need a mirror and the willingness to be seen.

Foto: Rachel Claire · Pexels
City
Milan
Category
vintage jewelry
Published
22 September 2026
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