
Vintage Cartier gas lighter silver and gold lines oval with box.
The edit · Jewellery
A used piece of jewellery in gold. Nothing on a vintage jewellery tray was designed by committee. Chunky chains and carved cameos share the same handmade quality that modern production cannot copy.
The jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.
Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. The maison defined the wristwatch with the Santos in 1904 and the Tank in 1917, and its gold vermeil Must de Cartier line of the 1970s and 1980s made the brand a fashion statement.
Cartier watches are collected as much for the case as the movement. The Tank, Santos and Pasha hold value exceptionally well, and the Must de Cartier era is enjoying a full revival with a new generation of collectors.
What to look for
Look for the signature, the hand-stamped dial and the serial. Vermeil, gold over sterling silver, should show its .925 marks, and the burgundy dials of the Must era are the most sought after.
Hallmarks tell the story. A clear maker's mark or metal stamp is worth more than a pretty setting, so turn the piece over before you fall for it.
How to wear it
One heavy piece beats three delicate ones. Mix gold with silver deliberately, and pin a brooch to a lapel slightly higher than feels natural.
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