The jacket that made women dangerous.
In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent did something no Parisian couturier had dared. He took the men's tuxedo — the uniform of male power — and cut it for a woman's body. Le Smoking was born. The French establishment was horrified. American department stores refused to stock it. Nan Kempner, a New York socialite, was turned away from Le Côte Basque restaurant for wearing one — she famously removed the trousers and wore the jacket as a mini dress.
Today, an original 1966 Le Smoking jacket trades for EUR 15,000-25,000 at auction. The later 1970s versions — recognisable by their wider lapels and softer shoulders — are the most wearable and trade for EUR 2,000-4,000.
What to Hunt
The original Le Smoking (1966-1968): Black wool grain de poudre, satin peak lapels, single button. The holy grail. Almost impossible to find outside auction houses.
The safari jacket (1968): Khaki cotton, four pockets, self-belt. YSL's other radical invention. Prices: EUR 800-1,500.
The Rive Gauche era (1966-1976): Ready-to-wear line that democratised YSL. Look for the 'Saint Laurent Rive Gauche' label. Prices: EUR 400-1,200.
Authentication Markers
- Interior label: 'Yves Saint Laurent' in serif typeface for couture; 'Saint Laurent Rive Gauche' for ready-to-wear
- Buttons: Engraved with 'YSL' monogram — check the back for the maker's stamp
- Construction: French seams, hand-stitched hems, silk lining in couture pieces
- Zippers: Talon or Riri, marked on the pull
Where to Find
Paris Saint-Ouen dealers carry YSL archive pieces, particularly at Marché Dauphine. London's Portobello Road yields Rive Gauche pieces at accessible prices. Tokyo's Shimokitazawa has the most competitive pricing on Japanese-market YSL from the 1970s.
The rule with vintage YSL: Buy the Rive Gauche line for wearing. Buy the couture for collecting. And never pass up a safari jacket.