LIVE
Loading vintage finds from Amsterdam · Paris · London · Tokyo · New York · Milan · Barcelona · Berlin…

✦ Culture · Amsterdam

The Accessories Rail Is the Best Deal in Amsterdam

Gloves, belts, sunglasses, hats. The accessories rail is where vintage is still genuinely cheap and still genuinely good.

By Louis Trash·
The Accessories Rail Is the Best Deal in Amsterdam

Why Accessories Matter Now

Gloves, belts, sunglasses, hats. The accessories rail is where vintage is still genuinely cheap and still genuinely good. These are the details that make an outfit look assembled rather than bought. A vintage scarf can make a plain coat look deliberate. A good leather bag, with proper patina, tells a story that no fast-fashion tote can. In a city where everyone cycles, the right accessory is the difference between looking like you're commuting and looking like you're going somewhere.

VINTAGE 1975 CARTIER TANK PRE-MUST 23MM GENTS 18K GOLD PLATED HAND-WIND!
VINTAGE 1975 CARTIER TANK PRE-MUST 23MM GENTS 18K GOLD PLATED HAND-WIND!

That means practicality and style are not opposites. A cashmere beanie, a sturdy belt, a pair of sunglasses that won't fly off your nose. These are the building blocks of a wardrobe that works on two wheels.

How to Wear It

A proper leather belt with a heavy buckle upgrades every pair of trousers you own. I have a 1980s tan belt with a brass buckle that I bought for €15 at a market. It has outlasted every new belt I've owned since. Look for belts that are at least 3cm wide. They read as intentional, not incidental.

Old sunglasses sit closer to the face. Choose a frame narrower than feels safe. The oversize trend is recent. Vintage frames from the 1960s and 1970s are smaller, and they flatter most faces without looking like a costume. Check the hinges. Metal barrels beat moulded plastic, and they usually mean a better brand.

Leather gloves with a plain coat is the cheapest way to look expensive in winter. I found a pair of black kid leather gloves with a single button at a charity shop for €8. They are lined in silk, and they make my €200 wool coat look like it cost twice as much. Wear them with the cuff over your sleeve, not tucked in, and you'll look like you know what you're doing.

Hats are another story. A felt fedora from the 1940s can be had for under €50 if you know where to look. But it has to fit your head, not just your style. A hat that's too big will make you look like you're borrowing your grandfather's clothes. Try it on, and if it sits about a centimetre above your eyebrows, it's probably right.

Where to Find Yours in Amsterdam

  • Episode De Pijp (Gerard Doustraat 63) — big racks, honest prices, restocked most mornings, from around 20 euros. This is my first stop. The accessories rail is at the back, next to the belts. It's not curated, but it's deep. I've found a pair of 1970s Cazal sunglasses there for €25, and a silk Hermès scarf for €40 (real, I checked the rolled hem).
  • Concrete Matter (Huidenstraat 13) — menswear with real provenance, the good stuff is at the back, from around 45 euros. The owner, Jeroen, knows every piece in the shop. He'll tell you which 1960s leather satchel is actually from a French postal worker, and which is a reproduction. His selection of belts is small but impeccable. Full-grain, with original buckles. I bought a 1980s Belgian army belt there for €30. It's the best belt I own.
  • Bij Ons Vintage (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 150) — curated designer, ask about the pieces behind the counter, from around 60 euros. This is where I go when I want something special. They have a glass case of vintage Cartier and Tiffany pieces, but the real treasures are in the drawers behind the counter. Ask to see the silk scarves. They have a collection of 1970s Yves Saint Laurent scarves that are stunning, and they start at €80.
  • Waterlooplein Market (Waterlooplein 2) — unsorted and cheap. Go early, bring cash, from around 90 euros. This is the wild card. The market is a jumble of stalls, and you have to dig. But I once found a pair of 1950s tortoiseshell sunglasses for €10. The seller didn't know what they were. I've also found leather gloves with fur lining for €5. Go on a Tuesday or Thursday, when the serious vintage dealers set up. Bring cash, because many stalls don't take cards.

Go on a weekday morning if you can. The rails are fullest before the weekend crowd arrives, and staff have time to show you what came in overnight. I always go on a Tuesday at 10am. The shops are quiet, and the staff are happy to chat.

What to Look For

Belts should be full-grain leather. Check the cut edge for layers, which means bonded and will crack. A good belt will have a smooth, dense edge, not a rough one. Look for brass or steel buckles. They age well and can be polished. Avoid anything with a plastic buckle, no matter how cool it looks now.

On sunglasses, look at the hinges. Metal barrels beat moulded plastic. The lenses should be glass, not plastic. They'll last longer and give you clearer vision. Check for scratches. A few are fine, but deep ones will distort your view. If you wear prescription, you can have the lenses replaced, but it will cost more than the frames.

For hats, check the sweatband for a maker's name and make sure the felt has not gone soft and shapeless. A good felt hat will have a certain resistance when you press on the crown. If it springs back, it's good. If it stays dented, it's past its prime. Also, look inside the crown for a size tag. European sizes run from 54 to 61. If it's not marked, try it on and see if it fits without squeezing.

One last thing. Try it on properly, walk around in it, and sit down. A vintage accessory that only works standing still is not going to survive your actual life. I once bought a 1960s leather handbag that looked great on the hanger but was too small for my phone and keys. It's now a display piece on my shelf. Learn from my mistake.

The History in Your Hands

Every vintage accessory has a story, and in Amsterdam, that story often involves the city's own past. The 1970s were a golden era for Dutch leather goods, when workshops in the Jordaan produced belts and bags for a generation of designers. Some of those workshops are still running, but their vintage pieces are increasingly rare. I once found a leather belt stamped with the name 'De Vries'. A small Amsterdam tannery that closed in the 1980s. It was €15 at Episode, and it's the most personal piece I own.

The 1960s were also a time when Amsterdam's fashion scene was influenced by the Provo movement, which valued simple, functional design. That ethos is still visible in the vintage pieces you'll find here. Clean lines, durable materials, nothing flashy. When you buy a vintage accessory in Amsterdam, you're not just buying an object. You're buying a piece of that history.

So next time you're in the city, skip the souvenir shops and head to the vintage stores. The accessories rail is where you'll find the real deals. And a little piece of Amsterdam to take home.

[Pre-owned] Hermes Vintage H Buckle Elastic & Leather Belt Brown Gold Canvas The Edit
Designer Bags · Used

One to watch

[Pre-owned] Hermes Vintage H Buckle Elastic & Leather Belt Brown Gold Canvas

Two centuries of saddle stitching. This honestly worn bag in leather and gold carries exactly the quality that made Hermès worth collecting in the first place. A piece like this is not really bought, it is kept.

On the market now

View the piece

The names

Meet the designers

The minds behind this story — each with a piece currently on the market.

Designer001

Hermès

France · 1830s

The Birkin, the Kelly & the silk carré

The Birkin, the Kelly & the silk carré

Top piece

HERMES Kelly 35 2Way Shoulder Hand Bag Chamonix Leather Brown Vintage 247RF960

View →

Designer002

Ann Demeulemeester

Belgium · 1980s

Romantic goth, asymmetric leather

Romantic goth, asymmetric leather

Top piece

[Pre-owned] Hermes Vintage H Buckle Elastic & Leather Belt Brown Gold Canvas

View →

Designer003

Chanel

France · 1910s

The little black dress & the 2.55

The little black dress & the 2.55

Top piece

Chanel Tweed Green Jacket Vintage Size Small

View →

Designer004

Dior

France · 1940s

The New Look & the Lady Dior

The New Look & the Lady Dior

Top piece

Christian Dior Vintage Lady Dior Bag Cannage Quilt Lambskin Medium

View →