The Leather Bomber Jacket Renaissance

The Bomber's Second Act

It's 7 PM on a Friday in Amsterdam, and I'm standing outside Concrete Matter on Haarlemmerstraat. A woman in her fifties, silver hair cropped short, is trying on a black leather bomber. She's wearing it over a silk blouse and wide-leg trousers. She looks like she's just stepped out of a Helmut Lang campaign, but the jacket is from 1985. That's the magic of the bomber: it doesn't care about your age, your style, or the decade you were born in. It just works.

Foto: Wolrider YURTSEVEN · Pexels

Walk through the Nine Streets and you'll see them in every window. Hanging next to floral dresses and tweed blazers, the bomber has become the unlikely hero of vintage shopping. It's not the first piece you think of when you imagine classic leather, but it's the one that sells out first. Ask any shop owner in De Pijp or on the Spuistraat: the bomber is having a moment, and it's not going anywhere.

From the Cockpit to the Catwalk

The bomber jacket started as a tool. In 1917, the U.S. Army Air Corps needed something warmer than the wool coats pilots were wearing in open cockpits. They commissioned a company called Schott NYC to make a leather jacket with a fur collar and a zippered front. That first design, the A-1, evolved into the A-2 in the 1930s, which became standard issue for Air Force pilots in World War II. The A-2 had a buttoned collar and a tighter fit, designed to keep the wind out at 10,000 feet.

Foto: Antoni Shkraba · Pexels

Then came the G-1, the one with the mouton collar and the front zipper that snaps shut. That's the jacket Tom Cruise wore in Top Gun, the one that made every teenage boy in the 1980s want to be Maverick. The G-1 was originally made for Navy pilots, but it became a fashion staple when Hollywood got hold of it. The bomber's journey from military gear to fashion icon is a story of appropriation and reinvention.

By the 1970s, the bomber had crossed over. It was the uniform of the punk movement in London, worn with safety pins and ripped jeans. In the 1980s, it was the uniform of the hip-hop scene in New York, worn oversized and loud. And in the 1990s, it was the uniform of the grunge era, worn with flannel shirts and Doc Martens. Each generation has claimed the bomber for its own, and that's why it's so versatile.

The Golden Age: 1970s-1990s

The bomber jackets that you see on the vintage racks today are mostly from the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s. These are the decades when the jackets were made with thick, high-quality leather and heavy-duty hardware. The leather is often lambskin or goatskin, which is softer and more supple than the cowhide used in earlier military versions. The lining is often a quilted nylon or polyester, which makes them warm without being bulky.

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One of the most sought-after brands is Avirex. Founded in 1975 by Jeff Clyman, Avirex was a New York-based company that specialized in reproductions of military flight jackets. Their attention to detail was obsessive: they used the same leather, the same zippers, the same stitching as the originals. They also made the jackets for the movie Top Gun, which gave them instant credibility. An Avirex bomber from the 1980s with original patches can sell for €300 to €500 in Amsterdam, depending on the condition.

Another brand to look for is Schott NYC. The company is still family-owned and still makes jackets in the USA. Their Perfecto style, with the asymmetrical zipper and the belt, is technically a motorcycle jacket, but their bomber styles are equally iconic. A Schott bomber from the 1990s, like the G-1 or the A-2, is a solid investment. They were made to last, and they have. The leather is thick and the stitching is tight. You can wear it for another 20 years and it will only get better.

How to Wear It: Rules Are for Breaking

The bomber is the easiest jacket to wear if you let it be. The key is to embrace the worn-in look. A new leather jacket feels stiff and looks brand new, but a vintage one has character. The scuffs on the cuffs, the faded patches, the softened leather around the collar: these are the details that make it special. Don't try to cover them up or fix them. They are the story.

Foto: damla selen demir · Pexels

For a casual look, throw it over a white tee and straight-leg jeans. Add a pair of white sneakers or leather boots, and you're done. The jacket does the talking. But don't be afraid to dress it up. I've seen a bomber worn over a slip dress with heels, and it looked incredible. The contrast between the rugged leather and the delicate fabric is what makes it modern.

A word on fit: vintage bombers run small. They were designed to be worn close to the body, so don't be alarmed if a size 42 feels snug. If you're between sizes, go up. The jacket should fit comfortably over a sweater, but not so loose that it looks like a bag. The sleeves should hit at the wrist, and the waistband should sit at your natural waist. If you find a jacket that's a little too big, you can always have it tailored, but it's better to find one that fits right off the rack.

The Hunt: Where to Find the Good Stuff

Amsterdam's vintage scene is a goldmine if you know where to look. The most obvious place to start is Episode in De Pijp. They have a rack of bombers that rotates weekly, and prices are usually under €200. You'll find a mix of brands, from high-street labels to the occasional vintage find. The staff is knowledgeable and can tell you the difference between a genuine military jacket and a fashion reproduction.

For the serious collector, Concrete Matter is the place. They specialize in vintage workwear and military clothing, and their selection of bombers is curated. I've seen Avirex jackets with original patches, some with squadron insignia from the Vietnam War era. Prices are higher, but the quality is exceptional. A jacket from Concrete Matter is not just a piece of clothing; it's a piece of history.

Another option is to check the flea markets. Every Saturday, the Waterlooplein market has a few stalls selling vintage leather. It's hit or miss, but I've found a 1970s Schott bomber for €80. The trick is to go early and be prepared to dig. Also, don't be afraid to haggle. Most dealers expect it.

The Investment: Why a Bomber Beats a Prada Bag

If you're going to spend money on a vintage leather jacket, the bomber is the smartest choice. Unlike fast fashion, which loses value the moment you walk out of the store, a good vintage bomber holds its value. A well-kept Schott from the 1990s sells for more today than it did new. I've seen a 1980s Avirex with original tags sell for €700, and the buyer considered it a steal.

The reason is simple: quality. The leather used in those jackets is thicker and more durable than what you find in most new jackets. The zippers are made from brass or nickel, and they don't break. The stitching is reinforced. These jackets were built to last, and they have. In a world of disposable fashion, a vintage bomber is an heirloom.

But the investment isn't just financial. It's personal. When you wear a vintage bomber, you're wearing a piece of someone else's life. Maybe it was a pilot's jacket, maybe it was a rebel's. You'll never know, but you can imagine. And that's the real value. It's not just a coat; it's a conversation starter. It's a statement that you value history and craftsmanship over trends.

So, if you see a bomber that fits, buy it. Wear it. Let it age. Let it become yours. And when someone asks you where you got it, you'll have a story to tell.